BY CODY KENDALL FOR THE STAR-LEDGER
New
Jersey fine dining had a mini-renaissance in 2005, as an exciting
number of top-notch restaurants made impressive debuts during a banner
year.
Casual elegance seems to be
what's working with great meals offered in a stylish, but
unpretentious, atmosphere. Stuffy and formal definitely are out, while
creative cooking and artful presentations are in.
**** Excerpt ****
Our
number two restaurant of the year and our other 4-star rating of 2005,
Lorena's (168 Maplewood Ave., Maplewood, 973-763-4460), got off to a
running start in the building occupied until May by the much-loved
Jocelyne's.
Chef-owner Humberto Campos
Jr. kept the understated French atmosphere, but added his own masterful
voice to the menu.
One of our favorite
dishes there was the seared Hudson Valley duck foie gras ($18), with a
vanillascented dried fruit relish and a Banyuls wine reduction.
An
interesting entree involves medallions of pork confit ($24), sweetened with caramelized apples, chestnuts and baby carrots. For
dessert ($8) you can still have "traditional" créme brulée, but those
who want something a little different should try the warm pear tarte
tatin, with a warm quince sauce and vanilla bean ice cream.
**** Excerpt Ends ****
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